Tuesday, May 26, 2015
Now Hurtigruten is off to Antarctica. The 'MS Midnatsol' will visit Antarctica for the 2016-17 season with an interactive science lab. It will be based in Punta Arenas and explore the Chilean Fjords. 'MS Fram will remain based in Ushuaia, that little bit of Argentina at the southern most tip of South America.
Tuesday, May 12, 2015
We have another day in Istanbul after disembarking from the 'Minerva.. We disembarked early the next morning and head for a hotel which we have booked in the Old Istanbul. We thoroughly enjoyed our time on board 'Minerva', it has something no other cruise we have done has, though we believe that Saga (which do not sail to Australia, nor does Swan Hellenic) has a similar ambience. The cabins are quite simple compared to those on other ships - even the suites which have balconies, however the public areas are like an English country house, spacious and friendly with comfy armchairs and cosy sofas. There are a number of different areas to sit including an excellent library, classified in the Dewey system (though don't look for a catalogue). There are two bars and two restaurants - both served by the same kitchen, but one casual buffet style and the other formal. Many of the passengers are serial travellers with Swan Hellenic and were discussing past and future cruises and making plans to meet up again at the next cruise. It felt like belonging to a friendly English country club.
After dropping our bags we headed for Topkapi. This was an option on the excursion program yesterday but we had already booked Old Instanbul. Topkapi Palace is like a small town. The residence of the Ottoman Sultans constructed in 1478 it was lived in until 1868 it has 4 courtyards and beautiful gardens in and around the buildings. There is a library, kitchens, and the famous harem - a town within a town. The Imperial Treasury has gifts to the sultans on display and there are audience galleries, schoolrooms and Turkish baths. While it is very splendid and well worth a visit, it is a little tedious after about an hour or two. This is because it is room after room beautifully decorated with tiles and marble. These rooms have little furniture except the occasional low ottoman sofa. It would be far more evocative if, for example, the kitchens were set up as they are at Hampton Court Palace in England for example with models of the food and people who would have used them, actually acting out cooking and food preparation.
It was a beautiful sunny day however and we enjoyed our time wandering through the gardens. After about 4 hours we set off the find the Spice Market. This was well worth a visit, though it is hugely disappointing not to be able to bring any sices home. I am even wary of bringing home Turkish delight unless it is sealed. The Spice Market or Egyptian Spice Bazaar, is in a very old part of town, under cover and seems to extend for miles. Dozens of stalls selling the same produce make it difficult to decide, but finally I settle on a few boxes of Turkish delight - after tasting it - and ask for them sealed.
Our evening was planned to be in a meze house in Taksim, but after taking the tram and funicular to get to this part of town we decided it was too seedy - and that the area around the Agia Sophia and the Blue Mosque looked like they had better restaurants. Next time we need to know where to go as I am sure that Istanbul has some great innovative food. We ended up eating in a run-of-the-mill cafe... have an average meze plate and a meal cooked in a claypot known as guvec - not a meal to celebrate.
Tomorrow we begin our journey back to Sydney.
We arrived in Istanbul in the early morning with a mist on the Bosphorus, and a sunny day in store. Istanbul is a enormous city, growing from the around 1.5 million when Martin first visited in the late 1960s to around 14 million. With the two bridges connected the Asian and European sides of the town it is bustling and busy with ferries criss-crossing the Bosphorus and a very modern efficient tram system (very simple to use and well-worth using if you staying anytime and want to explore on foot).
We had a day and a night on the ship before we disembarked finally so we took advantage of the tours and started with the tour of Old Istanbul.
Then the highlight- the Underground Cistern which dates back to the 6th century and was built by the Emperor Justinian in 532 to enrues that the town had it's own water supply that could not be ransacked by invaders.It is in amazing condition as it was ignored by the Ottoman empire who want use water uneless it is flowing and is now a mecca for tourists. If you do little else in Istanbul, visit the Cistern... it is wworth going down all the steps, queueing and standing under dripping water.
Saturday, May 9, 2015
A watery sunshine and a chilly breeze greeted us as we took a bus and walking tour of the sights of the city. As with so many towns around the Black Sea the history goes back to Roman times and earlier, and there are many Roman ruins around the harbour side. As with the other cities we have visited it too was an important link in the Ottoman empire, it see-sawed between control by the Bulgurs and the Turks for centuries,
We were taken to the Roman Baths where it is possible to get a picture of just what a big enterprise these were and how sophisticated Roman engineering was. We also visited a Roman market place where the mosaic floor was remarkably preserved despite a flood in recent years which had ruined some of the mosaic. On the down side it is all a bit fusty and in need of a clean, but it remains remarkable.
The Ethnographic Museum was another stop. This is in an Ottoman town house built by one of the upper classes almost entirely of wood. It houses local crafts and folk costumes and was an interesting overview of the culture of the region.
Other tours we were offered today included the Balchik Botanical Gardens, Balchik being a coast town just outside Varna, and the tour included a tour of the palace built in 1936 by King Ferdinand of Romania for his English wife Queen Marie. But as we only had a half day in Varna only one tour was possible. Often we will take ourself off to explore, but when a ship only calls into a port for a half day, unlees you have made private arrangements, taking a town tour is really the only way to see a place - sometimes you will find the port is out of town and just getting into town can talk precious time.
We left Varna at lunchtime and headed to Nessebar, also known as Nesebar. Sailing into the port in the late afternoon sun was magical. It is a very pretty port and you can see why it is a major resort, not just for local but also British and German tourists.
We had a night and a day in this town, so as soon as the ship had docked we set off to walk the old part of town, right beside the port. This town too is steeped in history - going back 3,000 years. One of the most important Byzantine towns on the west coast of the Black Sea in Byzantine times, it has many churches, Roman ruins and 19th century wooden houses. It is also has a vibrant tourist sector with many shops, cafes and restaurants.
The excursion we chose the next day was the Bulgarian Village. We set off in a bus which took us on a tour of the country side and gave us a quick look at the resort of Sunny which has around 500 tourist hotels and sandy beaches. The village we visited was Goritsa, a sleepy little village populated by many retirees, where we visited the tiny local Orthodox Church, located in a small house, as this was the only way these Christians could worship in the time of the Ottoman and Muslim domination. The priest and his wife spoke very good English and gave us an excellent overview of how their church operated and their lives.
There followed morning town at the home of a local family who greeted us with the traditional home-baked bread which you eat sprinkled with a mix of cinnamon and salt (delicious), home-baked sweets and cakes (a baklava of course and other sweets baked with filo, shortbreads including kourabiedes, and homemade cheese. The master of the house also made very good wine and had a distillery making rakia. They were warm and welcoming and it was a delightful interlude.
A visit oto the local majoy followed and we were back at the ship by lunchtime. More time to explore in the afternoon then we sailed for Istanbul in the late afternoon
Friday, May 8, 2015
Just back from an excursion into Constanta, Romania. We did not particularly warm to it. It is a town that has seen better days, many of the beautiful ornate mansions were requisitioned by the Communists and are now crumbling, because their owners, having got them back can't afford to restore them. The picture is of an ornate and potentially captivating building by the waterfront, that has been everything from a home to a wedding reception house to a casino, but now in disrepair.
We did a walking tour this morning and were shown the old Roman ruins, of which there are many, including an amazingly huge mosaic floor of a former market that has been unearthed by archaeologists. Unfortunately they don't seem to have the money to keep this in good condition either, so it's future is probably threatened.
It was freezing... we thought it would be warm and sunny, as the last 2 days at sea were idyllic as far as sunshine goes... so it was good to get back to the ship and a bowl of soup.
Before our 2 days at sea, we ventured onto Russian soil at Sochi, the place of the Winter Olympics in 2014. Sochi has been described as spectacular and the mountain peaks that form the background were the site of the Olympics. It was a freezing, wet day and we opted for the excursion to see the sights and visit Stalin's Dacha. A visa is essential for Australians entering Russia and they are very expensive and not worth if for a half day's stopover, so there was no chance to do an independent walk around the city. Our first stop was the Matseta springs, a sulfur spring spa popular with many Russians and the reason why Stalin built one of his many dachas there.
When we arrived at Stalin's 'holiday house', we found a grim dark green building, which was mostly closed to the public, even his swimming pool which was on the itinerary was closed for renovation. Kept nearly as it was in Stalin's time, with a life-size wax figure of Stalin sitting at his desk in his office, it was quite unnerving.
We have been listening to lectures on board by experts in diplomacy and Byzantine and military history and this has added to the tours and made the excursions much more interesting ... one reason we chose this trip.
So now we have 3 more ports of call, the final one being Istanbul. Next it's Varna, then Nessebur, then Istanbul.
Wednesday, May 6, 2015
Batumi, Georgia is our port of call on the following day. The sun shines and the air is chilly in the early morning as our guide leads on a walking tour of the city. As with all guides, Salome is very proud of her city and it is certainly putting on its Sunday best on this day. The building sparkle in the early morning sun, especially the odd folly that may become a hotel with a ferris wheel attached to the side high off the ground and a shiny spear pointing to the heavens.
We walk throught cobbled streets with well-kept houses and reach Neptun Square, a modern central square opposite the mosque. Service is beginning but we creep into the back of the church and watch the ceremony briefly, taking in the incense fumes and the devout crowd.
Then it's a bus trip to the Botanical Gardens. These are 20 minutes drive outside the city and high in the mountains. We are lucky that our guide knows her plants and she takes us through the sections of the gardens divided into various geographical regions, including, surprisingly, Australia. The view down to Batumi city is spectacular.
Lunchtime has us back on board, then a walk through another part of the city, less salubrious, and a place of gambling houses, pawn houses and money exchanges. Batumi is apparently a paradise for Turks who cross the border to gamble and enjoy an alcoholic drink! Apart from tourism the city's economy is based on oil refining and tea as the climate is ideal for tea plantations.
Sadly it is raining. But that doesn't stop the modern coaches which barely straddle the mountain road heading out of town and up into them misty mountains. These are the Pontic Alps, the snow is melting on the mountain tops and there are furious waterfalls crashing into the gullies crossed by the road.
The Sumela Monastery, on Mela Mountain, was founded in the 4th century when an icon of the Virgin Mary formed the nucleus for a religious order and wasn't abandoned until 1923.
It is now a major tourist attraction and we were one of many parties making the trek up the mountain from the carpark.
There is much work still to be done on the monastery which has been seriously defaced by graffitti over the frescoes, but you can't destroy the location and sheer magnitude of the construction which covers the side of the mountain and, we were told is also accessible by tunnel and from below - but that is closed to the public. When there has been more restoration work done, it will be an even more awesome piece of history.
We also have the afternoon in Trabzon - so we set off into the town. Firstly taking the wrong turn into a seedy local market, then re-tracing our steps to the central square and the hub of the town's social life on a Saturday afternoon. We enjoy a fresh bream, split in half and grilled to perfection, accompanied by salad and tomato/chilli paste and a complimentary baclava with tea. Just next door an excellent sweet shop beckons and we buy plump dried apricots and figs, Turkish pastries and pistachio sweets to take back to the ship.
Sunday, May 3, 2015
Once we had passed the new (third) bridge being built to cross the Bosphorus we were into the Black Sea and on our way to Sinop. Before we decided to take this cruise I knew very little about the Black Sea, except that Sebastopol and the Crimea were somewhere on its seabord so Sinop was not a place I ever expected to visit. It took 2 nights to reach this town in Turkey on the southern seabord of the Black Sea. Legend has it that Sinop was founded by the Amazons, history has it that whoever it was the first habitation was around 700 B.C. It was a focus for the trade route for thousands or years, and many of the great civilizations fought over its possession. The city walls that still stand in many places, are over 2000 years old ahd have been built upon many times over the years. We took a walk with a guide to the mosque and the folk museum, then set off on our own. We found a delightful coffee shop/music coffee bar tucked into a courtyard. Here a young man, whose English was very good, served us an excellent Turkish coffee and treated us to an impromptu performance on his instrument, a bit like a mandolin, but made from a butternut pumpkin shell.
A bakery tempted us inside and we bought freshly baked turkish bread and a couple of pastries before heading back to the ship for lunch. Minerva set sail early afternoon for the next port of Trabzon.
Thursday, April 30, 2015
Next day we set off to explore the Plaka by daylight and explored the narrow streets and laneways of the old town beneath the Acropolis. After sampling ouzo in an ouzo bar - yes at 11.00 a.m.! - we caught one of the tourist buses and did a tour that took us to the Acropolis (which we didn't climb thinking we might come back) and down to the port Piraeus. Beautifully warm sunny weather and a good reintroduction to Athens, which reminded us of Buenos Aires with it's broken footpaths, graffiti and abandoned building sites. We couldn't leave Athens without finding a Lukumades bar. We loved these Greek sweets when we were here before and we found a modern take on the old bars in the Plaka. Two enterprising young guys are filling them with chocolate and banana cream as well as the traditional honey and cinnamon... we preferred the traditional.... of course they too are accompanied by Greek coffee!!
We boarded the Minerva that afternoon. Then after unpacking found a taxi to take us to the old port, and found a taverna on the water's edge where we had a plate of really fresh seafood, a Greek salad, and a rice dessert with more mastika! And of course Greek coffee.
The ship left Piraeus the next day at lunchtime and we arrived at the beginning of the Dardanelles early this morning. We got up early to see the entrance and to enjoy the sunrise over the Turkish countryside.
Our excursion departed from Cannakle at 9.30 and we bussed to a ferry that took us across the straight and off to the battlefields. Unfortunately we missed the intended ferry and had to wait for the next short which cut our visit short by a museum visit... but we managed to visit Anzac Cove (the site of the ceremony a couple of days ago), the cemetery at Lone Pine and other sites of the Gallipoli battle. With a grandfather who landed at Anzac Cove at 4.a.m. on 25th April 1915, in the first Australian contingent, it was a special moment to stand on that very beach just over 100 years later.
Tuesday, April 28, 2015
Our adventure in Norway ended in Bergen. The new adventure would begin in Athens, Greece 2 days later. Our last day in Bergen was very wet... not unusual for Bergen we were told, in fact quite normal. It is didn't deter us from riding on the cable car up to the top of a mountain and looking down on a toytown Bergen through the mist and raindrops. The best way to see Bergen, whether it is rainy or sunny.
The following day we travelled to Greece. An investigation of the flights, flight times and our need to be in Greece by a deadline, meant that the best way to go was from Bergen to London and London to Athens.
It is over 40 years since we were last in Greece. Then we were young backpackers, exploring a part of the world we had fallen in love with while living in Melbourne and discovering wonderful Greek food and making Greek friends. We spent our last dollars on Corfu, in Athens and then travelling up to Thessalonika, in glorious summer sunshine. We discovered loukamades, watched our first Greek wedding and were thrown a parcel of Greek almonds we later learned was a bombonniere, swam from a pristine beach in Corfu and explored an unfenced Acropolis.
The Greece of 2015 is very different. Freeways, large hotels, English signs, English speaking in shops and wherever we go intense traffic. 40 years ago the traffic was chaotic and noisy, but nothing like it is now.
After checking in to our hotel in the heart of the city, we set off into the Plaka to find a Greek taverna. And we did. Daphne's is a delightful restaurant nestliing into a ruin, with vine and bougainvillea covered courtyards and attentive waiters. I asked for retsina, to the surprise of the waiter, but it was not available, however everything else was.
We dined on a grilled eggplant salad, dolmades, grilled calamari and spinakopita, with two glasses of excellent Greek wine. We followed with a plate of Greek sweets, galactoboureko, kataifi and balaclava, Greek coffees and a glass of mastica. An excellent re-introduction to Greece!